![]() And should I take everything back apart and bleed the tensioner, or can I simply take off the cover on the drivers side and make sure the belt is plenty tight or is it a case of if it lasted 250 miles it will be fine? I'm just worried that if the tensioner isn't working properly the belt will keep the vehicle in time for awhile but wear prematurely, break, and destroy my valves. This will make it easier to reinstall the belt if you do not have a diagram of its routing. Tip: Take a picture of the serpentine belt routing with your cell phone. The belt will be on the front of the engine. Step 2: Open the hood and locate the serpentine belt. How risky is it for me to keep driving the rest of this work week ~75 miles without checking into this. Step 1: Park your vehicle and turn off the engine. The belt was pretty tight and the tensioner did seem to tighten it even more, though not dramatically. However, I am paranoid about the fact I did not bleed the tensioner, I won't have much time this week to take things back apart. Genuine 2010 Subaru Part 13033AA042 (13033AA000, 13033AA001, 13033AA002, 13033AA040, 13033AA041) - Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner. I have already driven 250 miles, car seems to be running better that when I bought it, just 5k miles ago. But I messed up, the guide I was using did not mention bleeding the new hydraulic tensioner I just noticed the sheet of paper with my Gates kit box that says you must bleed it 3 times to ensure you get all the air out, otherwise you void the warranty. I am a novice I went slow and easy and followed a pretty good DIY guide I found online. ![]() I used a Gates kit that had all the pulleys, gears, tensioner, and water pump. I just replaced the timing belt in my 08 forester this past weekend.
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